Wednesday, April 19, 2006

牛久市


What is 牛久市? Ushiku-shi is inaka (literally: "house in the rice field") - the sticks, the boonies. It is a bedroom town. Yet, it will always have a special place in my heart. From natto (my first lunch in Ushiku was cold natto soba with a raw egg on top - scary!), to its kappa matsuri that is always interupted by a taifun, Ushiku is my Japanese cultural lode stone. Check it out here: http://www.city.ushiku.ibaraki.jp/
It is even lisited in Wikipedia! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ushiku
The kanji (ushi) in this case can be read as "cow", while (ku) literally means "meeting place" or "coming together", and (shi) is "city". "A City Where Cows Get Together". Kind of catchy, eh? Actually, I never saw any cows there, but there is a copy of a French Chateau (built during the Meiji period), that used to produce wine (but the soil in Ibaraki Prefecture really wasn't very good for grapes). Now the wine is made elsewhere but sold at the chateau. They do, however, have a really good German-style bier garten (I meet the German brau miester they brought in to set up the brewery). The city also boasts Ushiku Daibutsu , the second tallest standing statue of Buddha - (Wikipedia says it is the tallest, but we were beat out by one that was recently built in Taiwan: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ushiku_Daibutsu).

The view from the top is impressive, but it is mostly of rice fields. Nevertheless, Ushiku-shi will always be special to me, because it was the first place I lived in Japan. I always felt a perverse sort of pride in telling sophisticated Tokyoites that I was from Ibaraki. The symbol of the town is the kappa monster (he's the guy at the top of the post with the cup of water on his head, holding the cucumber).

31 comments:

Alex said...

So in the year I came to Japan (2000) there was one person each from Indian, Pakistan, Turkey, Morroco, South Africa, France, Hungary, The Netherlands, Slovakia, Spain, Russia, and Costa Rica living in Ushiku city.

There was also one mysterious person of no nationality; do you think that was the kappa?

At the other end of the scale a whopping 327 Brazilians were doing their thing around the city, while 14 Americans and 9 Brits were engaged in drinking battles and snooker games.

Not much of a foreign community when you think about it, is it?

Ushiku Person said...

Did you know that there is an Immigration Detention Center in Ushiku? That is where they kept the fugitive chess grandmaster, Bobby Fischer in 2004. Maybe the "mysterious person" was a stateless immigrant?
I don't think the Kappa would be considered foreign (remember, they gave Tama-chan citizenship a few years ago?). Born and bred in Ushiku he is!
The foreign community all goes down to Toride (when they can't get down to Tokyo) for crazy-go-nuts Friday night fun.
I remember a lot of the Brazilians were nisei & sansei returnees working in the stone cutting quarries.
Ah yes, memories, memories...

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